East Coast Sicily Day 10 - Modica

Public transport in Sicily is always something of an adventure. It invariably gets you where you want to go but not always according to the official timetable. So, catching the coach from Pozzallo to Modica involves some trepidation and much asking of other people at the bus stop who are equally hopeful and equally uncertain. The drivers, however are very helpful and immediately weigh us up as tourists and kindly inform us as we are getting off at Modica to be careful about the return journey since the bus stop is in a totally different place.

We arrive in Modica more or less as planned and start exploring. We quickly discover that Modica is splendid. Part of the UNESCO world heritage site of the Val di Noto for its Baroque architecture the old part of Modica is built on two sides of a river valley with the actual river at the bottom having been covered after a flood in 1902 making Corso Umberto I the main and a wide thoroughfare.

We do a lot of walking up and down, first along Corso Umberto where we go up to one of the two cathedrals in Modica, Duomo di San Pietro. Then we continue up to Duomo di San Giorgio with its five naves and five doors and right up to the top of Modica Alta where there's a quieter and less touristy part of the town with a beautiful view.

But there are beautiful views everywhere in Modica because if you go up the right side you have splendid views of the left side and if you go up the narrow streets of the left side you get splendid views of the right.

We do both, interspersed with frequent stops for photos,  as well as to get our breath back. We also have a look at the cave dwelling area and stop to greet all the cats on the way up.

Modica is also famous for its chocolate which is special because it is produced at low temperatures which means that it has an interesting grainy texture which is totally different from ordinary chocolate. Modica chocolate also often uses spices such as chili pepper or ginger. If you love chocolate, and even if you don't, it's definitely worth a try. We go to the Fair trade shop to stock up. Their Fair Trade Modica Quetzal chocolate is produced in Modica using Fair Trade ingredients and is excellent. We linger a while in the shop talking to the volunteer, we used to volunteer in our local Fair Trade shop. Then it's time for lunch and we go to a Rosticceria in a small square off Corso Umberto. It's tiny but there are tables outside and an excellent selection of arancini and other savoury pastries. After coffee we take a last leisurely stroll up and down the historical centre and take a quick look at the less historical part. Then it seems wise to find the bus stop and be there early just in case. In the end the coach is quite late, but eventually appears much to our relief and that of the other locals waiting. Modica will remain one of our favourite places.....