France: Cordes-sur-Ciel, Puycelsi and Castelnou-de-Montmiral

 Monday

Albi is also a good base to visit the surrounding countryside. It is the centre of the Tarn region, albeit slightly north of centre and there’s a host of enticing villages within 30/40 minutes by car and even more if you’re prepared to drive further. We are staying in Albi for 5 nights and so decided to dedicate the afternoon of our arrival and two full days to Albi itself and another two days to visiting the area. I researched a lot and the helpful man in the tourist office confirmed my ideas so on Monday we get off to a reasonably early start, encouraged by the workmen outside who start before 8a.m.. The first step is to buy petrol. The first service station going out of Albi is closed so when we find a queue at the next one, just before our destination, we decide to wait and fill it up. 

Cordes sur ciel is a popular destination and the parking policy is 6 euros however long you stay, from March until the end of October, and 2 euros during the winter months. However, with the help of Gemini and some persistence we find the free parking spaces near the camper park. There are 25 and they are mostly empty, probably because they aren’t indicated on the road signs until you are nearly there, although there seems to be another free car park a little further out in the same direction. Anyway, we are lucky, park in the shade and from there it’s just a 3-minute walk up quite a steep bank to the ‘start’ of Corde sur Ciel. Here there is another steep bank which takes you up the first cobbled street of the old town. 

The houses have been left as they were and there are only a few shops but there already some nice corners as we walk up – old timbered houses, peeling shutters, unexpected flowers and a general shabby chic feel. Nevertheless, it’s a surprise when we reach the gateway at the top to find a level area of grand medieval mansions, a covered square and a grassy area with a beautiful view. Cordes lives up to the hype. It’s entitled to attract tourists. 

We wander around the historical centre and have a look in the church. Nearby there are free and clean toilets. It’s going to be another hot day but for now in the shade the breeze is deliciously fresh. We explore some of the ‘backstreets’, houses not apparently rebuilt because they still look as they were from the outside, or do they hide gleaming refurbished interiors? Difficult to know. Anyway, nice. We walk back down, realizing that the hill really was steep.

It's time to head for Larroque where we plan to have lunch Au Relais des falaises. Larroque is tiny and picture postcard charming. You could take several photos as soon as you get out of the car, and we do. Light-colored stone, pastel shutters and free flowing flowers. Beautiful. 

Au Relais offers a Menu du Midi for 19.90 euros. We have a terrine for entrée, followed by beef tongue, three generous pieces in a sort of gravy with mashed sweet potatoes (delicious). For dessert Andrea has a selection of cheese and I have crème brulèe: a perfect contrast between creamy below and a paper thin glassy layer on top. Delicious. The coffee is better than usual and with 25cl of wine and a jug of water our bill is less than 50 euros once again. After lunch we have a short stroll around the village and then drive to nearby Puycelsi. 

Here, parking is easy in the designated lot below the village, and from there it’s a five-minute walk. Puycelsi has just a handful of tourists wandering around like us. It is more manicured than Cordes, the houses rebuilt and perfect, the lanes as well, but every corner you turn offers a charming glimpse of beauty. It’s so quiet too and the sun is now hot but there’s still a cool breeze in the shade. We find a shady bench to rest for a while.

Our last stop of the day is Castelnou-de-Montmiral. It would be tempting to press on and see more villages, they are also lovely and each one unique, but we decide not to overdo it. Parking is easy just below the historical centre. Castelnou-de-Montmiral is similar to other villages but excels for its picturesque square with arches. Yes, it is as good as in the photos, possibly better. We stop for a coffee in the shade of the arches. By now I have learnt to ask for noisette. It’s difficult to drag ourselves up but we manage it. The church once again has the blue and golden frescoes like in Albi cathedral and even the small church in Puycelsi.

Back at the car it is hot, 31° as we drive back to Albi. We stop at the shopping centre at the Le Clerc supermarket and buy a few basics, including some cider and a couple of lamb chops, a nice but short air-conditioned interlude. It’s a relief to get back to the cool of the apartment where there’s washing to do. I cook the chops, nothing special and find it hard to get to sleep. Was that coffee really decaf, I wonder, or was it too much beauty in one day?