France: Castres and Lautrec

On Tuesday we get off to a slower start. I catch up on lost sleep in the morning and then we are undecided between visiting Ambialet and returning to eat in Alban. Or driving to Castres and then either carrying on to La Sidobre natural area or the village of Lautrec on the way back. The pictures of Castres seem enticing, maybe just Ambialet is too quiet a day and when Andrea finds an enticing restaurant in Castres, that clinches it. It’s another easy drive through the sunbaked and parched countryside, and parking is once again easy. The chosen restaurant however, alas is closed. But the views from the bridge of the houses along the river are worth the drive, really special.

We then explore the rest of the town, because Castres is not so small, with about forty thousand inhabitants, keeping an eye out for a restaurant which inspires. The centre isn’t as pretty as the medieval villages we visited the day before or as Albi but Place Jean Jaurès is attractive and the area around the Goya museum is very nice. So is the garden behind the museum, although a little lacking in colour which instead we find in a hidden corner of the Mairie next to the museum. The church, St Benoit, is closed for restoration.

We also find a restaurant - La Foganha which gets a rating, would you believe it, of 4.9 on Google Maps. It’s also out of our price range. Or perhaps not. Closer inspection reveals a complete menu weekday lunchtimes for 23 euros or 25 with a glass of wine. There’s also a very pleasant terrace with a view of the Goya museum. Except the sun is sneaking around between the roof tops. We choose a table in the shade, and then swap as the shade moves, but still end up in the sun a little while later until the owner rescues us and moves us to a totally shady table as soon as it is vacated. Eating in France. Or rather, eating in this area, is an adventure. We decipher the menu and choose pate, which is actually more like a terrine, then excellent cod in a creamy sauce. Andrea has cheese and I have the Café gourmand which here is called Café mignardises. The bill comes to 51 euros, and again we are pleased. 

After lunch we need a rest! And go back to Place Jean Jaurès for a coffee Noisette for me and a Patis with water for Andrea. Just 4.30 euros even if we sit for quite a time in the pleasant shade of the main square.

We are undecided about La Sidobre but decide it would make too long a day so drive to Lautrec.  No, Lautrec is not just about the windmill, although the windmill and the views from the small winding path of the botanical garden below it are charming enough. Lautrec is also a charming medieval village with a fine square and arches and pretty corners too. There are only so many ways to describe the villages here, so I’ll leave you to look at the pictures. 

If you like taking photos, you will love this place and it's difficult not to even if you don’t. There is free parking just below the village and clean free public toilets. I’m finding a lot of positives in this area of France.

Time to drive back to Albi. It’s 31° this afternoon too.