To Trani, via Acaya and San Vito di Polignano

 We manage to get off to an early start on Monday morning because we’re in the car for 8.30. Our first stop is Acaya, a tiny medieval hamlet in the municipality of Vernole. Acaya is the only example of a fortified city in Southern Italy,  and the entrance - Porta Terra - is impressive. The Castle on the right is closed because it’s a Monday. It was the first outpost for spotting and countering Saracen raids from the sea. The castle was  designed by Charles V's engineer, Gian Giacomo dell'Acaya, who also rebuilt the village in 1536. It doesn’t take long to visit Acaya, just a few silent streets and the simple Church of Santa Maria della Neve which was almost completely rebuilt around 1865. But it’s a nice place for an early morning stroll.

Our second stop is at the twice-weekly market in Lecce where we get a round of rodez-type-but-not-rodez cheese from the same seller as two years ago, I think! On the way we realized we could have stopped at Abbazia Santa Maria di Cerrate which we haven’t seen yet, but it’s a Monday so that, too, is closed. We stop for a quick lunch of riso patate and cozze at the self-service near the Conad in Fasano, just off the superstrada. It’s good, but a bit too salty. We also stock up on local olives, dried broad beans and almonds.

Next stop is at San Vito on the sea near Polignano. This is a second attempt after an unsuccessful stop a couple of years ago, also between apartments, when it was impossible almost to park or get out of the car due to the amount of people. But that was a Sunday in September. On a Monday in October, it’s totally different and also nicer. Parking is free and we find a place just under San Vito so no worries for the luggage in the car. We can relax and explore. Today is the day of tiny hamlets but San Vito is very picturesque and it’s understandable that it appears in many films and well-known Italian TV series.

We get to Trani at about 4pm and park just in front of our B&B Germinario where we always stay in Trani. Our host Giorgio is friendly and is one of the few hosts nowadays who actually stay at the tiny reception morning and afternoon-evening not only for check-in and out and to welcome guests but just simply to be there to answer questions and wish you a good day. A rarity. There’s also the excellent breakfast at the nearby bar-pasticceria and the fact that the room is actually a studio flat because there’s a tiny kitchen corner where you can prepare a simple meal.

Once we’re settled in we go out to say hello to Trani – truly a dear friend. We also buy far too much fish and eat it a little too late – talk about never learning our lesson!