Gems of the south of Salento

Gems of the Salento:

When I plan our trips I have to make choices. Often, I start planning with a short list and end up with a very long list. This is especially true in this area, where many small towns and villages, even those without a particular monument which draws the tourist, are memorable for the ‘tessuto urbano’, that magic alchemy of stone, history, time and typical culture which has sown together individually simple elements into something very special:  Puglia. 

For this post I have drawn an imaginary line across the ‘heel’ between Porto Cesareo in the west, Lecce, and San Cataldo in the east. I have not included anything in Lecce, which is clearly a required stop on any visit to the Salento area of Puglia but also well-documented everywhere. There may be other places I need to add in the future, and you are welcome to add anything you feel should be here, in the comments section below.

All these comments refer to visiting out of season and may not be applicable in July and August.

Towns and Villages

Galatina - for the Basilica di Sant’Alessandria and the Pasticciotti invented here by Andrea Ascalone.

Nardò - Salento at its best, slightly crumbling and weather-worn but full of beauty and history

Specchia - a village for wandering and feeling the warm sun of Salento which mellows life out of season

Castro - a tiny hill-top nucleus of history surrounded by mure messapiche and splendid views 

Copertino - churches, a castle, a fine square, an historical centre, an undertouristed feel

Presicce -  I was sceptical, but as well as the historical centre for wandering the view of the facade of the church of Sant’Andrea Apostolo with the column of the saint in front is too scenic to miss

Maglie - the historical centre where classy Salento gets on with life (and movida in the evenings) in style, independently of tourist chaos in other places, surrounded by palazzi nobili, history and culture. 

Santa Maria di Leuca - the southern-most tip of Puglia so firstly for its end-of-land position where two seas join - but also for the quirky villas and palm-lined promenade.

Otranto -  yes, you will find some foreign tourists here, but you will also find the Duomo di Santa Maria Annunziata and its fantastic mosaics and beautiful crypt, the opportunity to walk along the coast both north and south even if you haven't got a car and a clean and curated historical centre.

Porto Cesareo - a sleepy fishing village popular for summer longer stays with Italians, protected by the islands in front, with a long promenade for la passeggiata and walking, few buildings with more than two floors. Relax!

Coast 

Piscina Naturale di Marina Serra - the first time  I saw water  so blue and transparent it was green. Only low season. Local ladies bathe in the morning for a chat with their friends. Slow Salento

Sentiero cipolliane  (from Ciolo bridge) - easy hike north from Ciolo bridge next to the sea, superb. Part of the Cammino del Salento along the coast from Lecce to Santa Maria di Leuca.

Spiaggia and pescheria di Torre San Giovanni - the beach to the south is the most beautiful on the Tyrrhenian Sea (west coast of Puglia); the pescheria had the freshest fish at decent prices I found in all my travels in Salento. On the way there or back 'I Contadini' farm and produce high quality local products at decent prices and really do offer you a tasting. Or stay on the beach until late for the sunset.

Tricase Porto - tiny and picturesque

La Strea (Porto Cesareo) a strip of land between two seas where nature is left in peace for you to stroll and injoy

Baia dei Turchi - wow! Really! You can't get better than that in Italy without going to Sardinia.

Santa Cesarea Terme - for the villa perched above the sea

Coast road Otranto - Santa Maria di Leuca - for the views

Cycle path (also great for easy walking) right on the rocks which stretches for several kilometres between Torre San Giovanni and Capilungo 

Monuments

Galatina – Basilica di Sant’Alessandria - frescoes

Otranto – Duomo di Santa Maria Annunziata - mosaics, fresoces, crypt.......

Centopietre and San Giovanni Battista di Patù and Santa Marina del Casale di Ruggiano - Salento to discover

Acaya - a perfectly preserved medieval fortified town, excellent example of Renaissance military architecture

Casarano - Santa Maria della Croce frescoes and mosaics

Castel del Monte - Unesco and unique

But all of Puglia is unique!