Felline in October 2025 Trip Report

We leave Porto Cesareo quite early on Wednesday morning and stop at the market in Gallipoli on the way to Felline, where we have booked a fantastic apartment. The market in Gallipoli is on the outskirts, so suits our route but it is very busy with a lot of tourists, especially the food part which interests us most. We buy some fruit and vegetables, maybe not the best ever and I dither over the dried tomatoes but decide not to. We are installed in our new accommodation in time for a basic and late lunch and then I get organised. I've got a headache which isn't budging but I don't want to 'waste' a day of our holiday so towards mid-afternoon we drive to Torre San Giovanni in search of fish and to investigate the beach. Many years ago we stayed at the campsite in Riva di Ugento and remember walking along the beach to Torre San Giovanni to buy fish. The beach is spectacular, the nicest of the beaches in Salento. Sand dunes behind so no sign of houses, soft whitish sand, shallow sea. It's a pity that the wind is strong and really quite cold. We walk a while and then head back north as the sun is setting. 

The wind is from the north so against the waves coming in towards the beach. The sea is quite rough and the white spray, slowed down by the wind in the opposite direction, takes the colour of the sunset behind so it looks like there's a line of fire along the top of the waves. Despite the cold and my head, it's an incredibly beautiful moment. Once the sun has gone down I retreat back to the car for a painkiller and to warm up while Andrea takes some more photos of the sky now a spectacle of colours.

I recover quickly and we got to have a look at the Pescheria, nearly as fantastic as the sunset because there is no smell of fish at all going in (sign of super-freshness) and an enormous array of fish. Should we have stayed in Torre San Giovanni? 

Well, it's only a ten-minute drive back to our accommodation and it is very nice accommodation indeed!

On Thursday we explore Specchia in the morning and Presicce and Marina di Pescoluse in the afternoon. Read about our day here.

On Friday we head to the far south - Santa Maria di Leuca with its attractive promenade and elaborate villas. Before, we do a splendid short hike near Ciolo bridge with sea views and in the afternoon stop at Patù to see Centopietre and the ancient San Giovanni Battista church as well as Santa Marina in Ruggiano. All the details here.

After several very busy days, on Saturday we decide to have a quiet day, exploring the nearby market in Ugento and the small town itself in the morning and Casarano and the Santa Maria della Croce church with its frescoes and mosaics in the afternoon. More here

On Sunday morning we go to a fiera near Casarano. It is mostly just like a weekly market so we get some fruit and some dried tomatoes. It is finally a warm sunny day so after lunch back at the apartment we go to the splendid beach just south of Torre San Giovanni to enjoy the sun. I also swim – the first time during this holiday and probably the last, considering the weather forecast. We had been advised not to stay in Torre San giovanni because it is 'deserted' after mid-September. But our late afternoon and see-the-sunset walk along the sea front is accompanied by dozens of local people strolling and enjoying the mild Sunday afternoon, bars and restaurants along the promenade overflowing with people and even some live music....

On Monday we go back to the eastern coast to do the short walk 'Via del Sale' in Corsano by the coast, then go on to the spectacular Marina Serra, Tricase Porto and Tricase. In the evening a quick walk on the cycle path from Torre San Giovanni heading north, for the sunset. More information here. 

5 intensive days in the deep Salento. I’m satisfied.

We chose Felline because of the beautiful apartment but it makes a good base for visiting the area. It's a small village so quick and easy to drive in and out of. The supermarket, with a lot of local products, is also good. But in the end, every day or evening we drove down to Torre San Giovanni for the beach, the sunset, or to buy fish, so that too would have been an excellent choice, even out of season. The beach in Torre San Giovanni heading south with its whitish sand, shallow water, dunes behind and very few beach clubs or 'buildings' is probably my favourite of the Salento area. The beach is also quite deep, not like the beaches near Porto Cesareo which are a narrow strip of sand between buildings and the sea. The area is also full of small villages to visit, explore and stroll around. Every time I go to Puglia I fall in love with more places!