Costa degli Etruschi May 2021 - Livorno

Livorno from Mazzanta is an easy drive, especially in comparison with the previous day's bends. Uncharacteristically we drive right to the centre and park in a pay car park, parcheggio Moderno. No amount of research on the Internet came up with anything better and dubious spots put us off after our experience in the Spiagge bianche car park on Friday. It's a two minute walk to the fine covered market. Although we don't find anything to tempt us it's interesting to look around. 

After a look in the cathedral where the main point of interest is the Cristo con Spine by Beato Angelico, we walk down towards the port and Fortezza Vecchia to see the Fontana dei Quattro Mori, which is being restored. From there we walk along the canal to the right and up to the Venezia area of the city, built around canals to allow 17th century merchants to check on their goods directly from their tall residences. This area of Livorno also escaped better from World War 2 bombing and is a peaceful and pleasant place for a stroll. 

We have a look inside a couple of churches, the hexagonal shaped Church di San Ferdinando is probably the nicest with some unusual trompe l'oeil effects and an unusual fresco of the marriage of Maria with a young and beardless San Giuseppe. There are also some banners commemorating the 140 victims of the Moby Prince disaster on 10th April 1991. The canal leads around the base of Fortezza Nuova, the middle of which is occupied by an acceptable park in the sense it's got grass and trees and seems safe but it's a pity there aren't more paths and flowers.

Nevertheless it's nice enough to prompt us to go and look for some lunch to eat there. An obvious choice for a picnic lunch is the "5 e 5", a warm bun filled with farinata, made of chickpea flour and olive oil. It's a classic of Livorno and the best place to get it is at Antica Torteria Al Mercato Da Gagarin just behind the covered market. It's already getting on for 12.30 when we head in that direction, only we get waylaid by the open air fruit and vegetable market and end up buying broad beans, fennels, strawberries, tomatoes, 2 big bags which need taking back to the car. Fortunately the car park is nearby but by the time we get to Antica Torteria Al Mercato Da Gagarin it's an unheard of 13.21. And there's a queue. Deep breath. We're way out of our comfort zone as regards lunch and there's also a queue, plus the walk back to the park. There are several other places to get a sandwich nearby, none of which sport a queue. Unusually, I decide to queue.

It's worth it. When I finally unwrap our precious packets back at the park I am not disappointed. Warm round bread roll, two generous slices of farinata and in the middle a generous portion of marinated aubergines. Alchemy approved. Absolutely delicious. One each is enough but I suspect we could have managed another half each.....

After our late lunch we have another stroll around the centre and buy a couple of cakes for merenda, and look at the large and mostly empty square , except for a few statues, which was built over one of the canals.

Then we move the car to the seafront for a walk along Terrazza Mascagni. 

The chequered pavement is very attractive with the blue sea behind, enormous waves rolling in, it's really quite warm too, very very pleasant. We spend an hour eating our cakes, strolling and sitting. Parking this time of year is pay, but just 1€ per hour. The day finishes with some shopping at the PAM supermarket for a change. Livorno is definitely worth a visit if you're in the area.

After supper we stroll to the beach near our apartment for the sunset.