Puglia - Bari in April 2

Sunday and Monday are dedicated to visiting Bari itself, Sunday because it's Sunday so transport for going elsewhere is limited and also because there is special free access to the castle in the afternoon and Monday because I have some work to do and the weather forecast is poor.

On Sunday we start off with a long walk along the promenade 

or Murat past all the large palazzi right to the very end where there's a beach. It's a couple of kilometres and fortunately the road next to the promenade is closed to traffic for some sort of race which means there are loads of people walking or jogging and it's quiet as well.

We get back to the centre of Bari in time to go to Mass in the Basilica, very pleasant to stay inside so long. As we come out we follow other people to Panificio Fiore where we buy two small slices of focaccia. It's really delicious, one of the best I have ever eaten without doubt, plenty of cherry tomatoes, slightly crunchy base, not at all chewy and yes plenty of oil, but good quality oil  - you can tell by the smell as well as the taste. Thus fortified, we can delay lunch a while and start to wander the historical centre. San Sabino Cathedral is also worth a visit although the crypt doesn't have the same fascination as that of San Nicola.

Just outside there's a shop jam-packed with all manner of chocolates and sweets and from there it's just a short walk to the castle area and the streets where the famous orecchiette are laid out to dry right outside the houses. Yes, because the historical centre of Bari is quite large and very definitely inhabited, not a dolled up for tourists attraction, it's a lively narrow streeted area where wanderers meet more local people than tourists.

It's lunchtime so we go back to the apartment for food and a rest, but the apartment is gloomy and it's such a nice day outside that we are soon out and about again. The castle can be visited free this afternoon so we wait patiently in the queue. Once inside we are free to wander around, the inside courtyards are pleasant with the recently restored clear stone  Then, we go into the multimedia room which is showing a video of the castle's history, interesting, although the comfortable armchairs are sleep inducing too ....

Back outside we head for Piazza Mercantile, the main square in Old Bari full of bars and restaurants. We are tempted by Bar Pasticceria Gelateria Martinucci but there are so many people we give up and settle instead for another long stroll around the old port and eventually along Corso Vittorio Emanuele and home.

Monday is dedicated to a little work and exploration of the more modern area of Bari, Corso Cavour past Teatro Petruzzelli and through the shopping areas and down as far as Piazza Umberto I, although we have seen some streets on our way to and from the station.

After a downpour after lunch which keeps us in, we head determined to Martinucci hoping that the day of the week and the weather will have reduced the crowds. It's still busy but we squeeze in to admire the ice-cream and the cakes and end up trying a pasticciotto leccese con pistacchio e ricotta with a cappuccino standing at the bar. The pasticciotto is just slightly warm and absolutely delicious.....we are hooked!

Afterwards we go for a stroll along the promenade and watch, enthralled, a fisherman beating some octopus (already dead). This is supposed to make it tender, all I can say is that octopus in Bari is the very best octopus I've ever eaten.......