North Gargano trip report September 2019

We spent 5 days at Foce Varano during the second week of September as part of our trip to visit the whole Gargano area . During our stay in Foce Varano we visited Lake Lesina, Lake Varano and Cagnano Varano, Vico del Gargano, Rodi Garganico and Peschici.

The weather was just about ideal for us, warm to hot and sunny during the day but with cool air at night. Our apartment didn't have air-conditioning and it wasn't necessary.

The beach just across the road from the apartment was practically deserted. We were just east of Foce Varano and there were just a few people here and there with their own beach equipment whereas walking along towards the Lido del Sol area there were beach bars and facilities.

The beach on the seaward side of Varano lake  between Foce Varano and Foce Capoiale is part of the nature reserve so is empty, wild and very pleasant, one or two people occasionally, some seagulls, peace, wind, nature. 

The beach was the best thing about our stay there. The sea shelves down gradually so it should be good for going into the water even if you are not a good swimmer, but during the whole of our stay there it was quite windy and the waves were quite big so I didn't try. There were some really spectacular sunsets!

It was already low season so few people around but a few local supermarkets were still open. Everything felt very quiet and peaceful.

Reasonably priced accommodation in the area was easily available but eating out seemed expensive so we cooked because the apartment was really well equipped.

We visited Rodi Garganico, a small town with a good Dok supermarket, a poor and grimy daily town market with just 2 or 3 stalls and a tiny and nothing special historical centre.

Vico del Gargano was disappointing, despite being one of the 'Borghi più belli d'Italia' the historical centre was largely abbandoned in an unpoetic way, although there were one or two nice corners we felt it was overrated and would not return.

Peschici is spectacular from afar, the white houses perched on the cliffs above the dark blue waters, less so in the centre which is full of touristy shops selling nothing special and without many viewpoints of the coast around except for the castle area at the end of the village.

Lake Varano and Cagnano Varano made for an interesting afternoon. We happened by chance, driving through the olive groves, on the Sanctuary in front of the Varano Crucifix in the lake, which was a very poetic place. Just below Cagnano there is a free ethnographic museum about life on the lake which is worth a stop, they are also planning a route to walk along the lake. Cagnano itself had a well cared for old centre of white washed houses beyond the gates of Palazzo Baronale which was pleasant to wander around. We also stocked up with excellent friselle, bread, taralli and a cake made from mosto at the untouristy and reasonably priced Panificio La Fonte del Pane. 

All in all, a five day stay was about right considering we like walking on the beach but didn't spend a whole day sitting there. And 5 evenings for 5 splendid sunsets....