Gargano in September 2 Rodi Garganico and Vico del Gargano
First thing in the morning we go to Rodi Garganico, enticed by talk of the market. We park in the free car park on top of the Dok supermarket, from there it's just a 5 minute walk to the centre of Rodi. We walk back and forth a few times before finally spotting the market in a dilapidated building which was modern a few decades back and is now just sad. Sad also the market, perhaps because the 11th September is already low season in Gargano but there are just a couple of fish and fruit and vegetable stalls.
We have a look at the historical centre of Rodi, a few streets in the Sotto Castello area, which takes us just 5 or 10 minutes and then get some small but fresh looking fish to cook in the oven. On the way back to the car we look in at the tourist information office, which hasn't got a lot of information for tourists, and get some fruit from a man with a van. At the Dok supermarket we stock up on other basics including the delicious Burrata and some excellent olives.
We go for a short walk along the beach in the direction of Foce Varano before lunch. The apartment is extremely well equipped and also has an oven, so the fish goes in there and is soon ready.
We are tired after the journey down so rest a while after lunch.
Next stop, Vico del Gargano, officially one of the "Borghi più belli d'Italia", and mentioned pretty much everywhere as one of the places worth seeing in the area. Giving a negative opinion of a place is never simple, one can offend the people who live and work there, who were born there. The modern part of the town is like hundreds of others in Italy but the Borgo Bello part is supposed to be the historical centre.
The historical centre is mostly totally abandoned, dilapidated buildings, yes with perhaps traces of past glories in the form of carved stone doorways or lintels but now, after some attempt at 'modernization' probably a few decades ago before aesthetics were an important criteria in rebuilding houses, left to themselves, doors and windows caved in, hanging open or cemented over, weeds, corners full of rubbish, and from the fact it is risky not to look where you are putting your feet, apparently a lot of dogs. A very occasional house has been carefully restored but the aluminium window frame of the balcony thoughtlessly sliced into the castle tower is emblematic.
Romantic because it conjures up a lost world?? I don't know. Such a sense of abandonment and lack of care (or funding??) and missed opportunities (??)so close to major holiday destinations could be depressing, Andrea is less negative so let's just say Vico needn't be on your must list if you're short of time.
The gloomy mood persists back at the apartment until I decide to go and watch the sunset. The beach shelves gently on this stretch of coast and the sea seems to be going out, the soft pink of the sunset is reflected in the wet sand as the waves retreat. There's a fine breeze and gusty waves, no-one about, Andrea experiments the new camera, life is fine again as we walk into the pastel dusk.
We have a look at the historical centre of Rodi, a few streets in the Sotto Castello area, which takes us just 5 or 10 minutes and then get some small but fresh looking fish to cook in the oven. On the way back to the car we look in at the tourist information office, which hasn't got a lot of information for tourists, and get some fruit from a man with a van. At the Dok supermarket we stock up on other basics including the delicious Burrata and some excellent olives.
We go for a short walk along the beach in the direction of Foce Varano before lunch. The apartment is extremely well equipped and also has an oven, so the fish goes in there and is soon ready.
We are tired after the journey down so rest a while after lunch.
Next stop, Vico del Gargano, officially one of the "Borghi più belli d'Italia", and mentioned pretty much everywhere as one of the places worth seeing in the area. Giving a negative opinion of a place is never simple, one can offend the people who live and work there, who were born there. The modern part of the town is like hundreds of others in Italy but the Borgo Bello part is supposed to be the historical centre.
The historical centre is mostly totally abandoned, dilapidated buildings, yes with perhaps traces of past glories in the form of carved stone doorways or lintels but now, after some attempt at 'modernization' probably a few decades ago before aesthetics were an important criteria in rebuilding houses, left to themselves, doors and windows caved in, hanging open or cemented over, weeds, corners full of rubbish, and from the fact it is risky not to look where you are putting your feet, apparently a lot of dogs. A very occasional house has been carefully restored but the aluminium window frame of the balcony thoughtlessly sliced into the castle tower is emblematic.
The gloomy mood persists back at the apartment until I decide to go and watch the sunset. The beach shelves gently on this stretch of coast and the sea seems to be going out, the soft pink of the sunset is reflected in the wet sand as the waves retreat. There's a fine breeze and gusty waves, no-one about, Andrea experiments the new camera, life is fine again as we walk into the pastel dusk.
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