Gargano in September 3 Varano beach, Lake and Cagnano Varano

It's Thursday and we have arrosticini di ovino in the fridge for lunch so we are free to set off on foot directly from the apartment along the beach then across the bridge at Foce Varano and then along the strip of beach and land which separates Lake Varano from the sea.

Lake Varano communicates with the sea via two canals named respectively Foce Varano and Foce Capoiale and the strip of sand that separates the lake from the sea is a nature reserve with pine, eucalyptus and mastic trees and the beach is totally wild, only a few facilities at the very beginning. Just the sort of place we love, firm walkable sand, the occasional person walking, sky, wind, waves and no sign of anything manmade for a long way into the distance. 

We walk and walk and slow down to watch the groups of seagulls, then start running fast all of a sudden so they all start taking off together, unperturbed but keeping their distance. Spectacular. 

The beach is clean close to the sea while towards the low dunes there are remnants of everything the higher tides have brought in, mostly aged plastic and wood..... Fortunately no 'fresh' rubbish left by visitors unlike many of the lay-bys we noticed driving around.

Walking on deserted beaches with the wind and the waves and the seagulls (and Andrea of course) has to be one of my very favourite activities so I get back to the apartment relaxed and happy to cook and eat on the terrace.

In the afternoon we set off by car through the ancient olive groves and along Lake Varano towards Cagnano Varano.

Purely by chance, because we see a coach parked in the shade, we turn into the green area right on the lakeside next to the Sanctuary of the Crocefisso di Varano. 

Totally unexpected the crucifix in the lake water is strikingly poetic, with the fresh breeze rippling across the lake waters, the enormous old trees and the view of the white 'cliffs' just around the lakeside.

Back in the car we continue towards Cagnano, stopping just before at the ethnographic museum about local life on the lakeside. The visit is free and there is a friendly lady custodian who gives us some postcards.

Up in Cagnano we park just in front of Palazzo Baronale which marks the entrance to the historical centre. The old centre is small and quiet but clean and cared for, some of the old houses have been left untouched and are abandoned but others have been rebuilt, simply but tastefully, and there are flowerpots, other decorations and white walls. Totally different from Vico, and altogether a more pleasant place to spend a quarter of an hour wandering around. We also meet two old ladies dressed in black sitting outside their houses and we stop to chat. But even Andrea has to give up, so strong is the dialect.

Back in the more modern part of Cagnano the afternoon is progressing with men sitting outside bars playing cards more than consuming, because walking through I notice only the very occasional coffee cup or bottle of mineral water.

Andrea leads us to a very good panificio called Fonte del Pane which is just opening for the afternoon and we buy taralli with fennel seeds, frise - the dry bread half rolls typical of Puglia, local wine, a special round cake/bread made from mosto with almonds, oh yes, and some bread - two rolls....

Time to head back on the quiet roads through the olive groves for another splendid sunset 

and a simple supper of taralli, our tomatoes, burrata, the mosto cake dipped into sweet wine. A good day.