She Left No Note

She Left No Note
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Slow travel In Granada

Slow travel in Granada, or why to stay at least a week......
Slow travel for us involves staying long enough in one place to get some (inevitably limited) idea of a town or city or area and not just making it an overnight stop to see the most famous monument(s). This is especially the case in Granada, where the unique splendour of the Alhambra is a draw which unjustly leaves the rest of the city and its beauties in the shade. So here are some reasons why Granada deserves a longer stay. They are based on our slow travel stay in March 2019 for 9 nights.


Visit the Albaicin

The Albaicin area of Granada with its white-washed buildings and narrow streets winding up the hillside is a Unesco world heritage site in its own right and every turn rewards you with a breath-taking view of the Alhambra. While the main access streets are busy with people from mid-morning onwards and the San Nicolas Mirador attracts hordes of people especially at sunset, wander the streets first thing in the morning, even on a Sunday, to absorb it's quiet beauty and quaint corners.

Albaicin area of Granada


Visit the other Monuments of Granada connected with the Alhambra

Cuarto Real San Domingo, Alcazar del Genil, Palacio de Dar al-Horra and the Corral del Carbon entrance are just some of the other monuments with the same leitmotiv of Nasrid Palace architecture, all worth a leisurely visit to revise the details even after you've seen the Alhambra.


Visit the other attractions of Granada

From the Capilla Real to the Cartuja Monastery to the Sacromonte Abbey and Palacio Carlos V, many attractions can be visited free on certain days. Slow travel means you're staying for several days so have got time to see them at a leisurely pace on the free day also to go back to Iglesia de santa Isabel at the right time (6.30pm in winter) or catch Santo Domingo church when it's open for Mass.

Palacio carlos V Alhambra Granada

Wander wander wander and wonder
Granada is a great city for just wandering around. Granada is not a stressful city and apart from the main roads the city centre streets are pedestrian or have little traffic and it's relaxing to wander around. In the Albaicin, the Realejo district or the Centre, whichever way you go you'll find a splendid church, an interesting building, beautiful patios, a Carmen to visit. Go as far as Hospital Real or look into some of the Patios of historical buildings that are open, so many things to discover. 



Walk slowly, look at the details. Granada in Spanish means pomegranate, and there are versions all over the place and hundreds of other details a fast traveller hasn't got time for..........





Walk walk walk

Or take some longer walks. Walk up and down to the Alhambra instead of taking the bus or go as far as Silla del Moro for the view. Walk to the Sacromonte Abbey and enjoy all the places on the way. More on walking here.


Shopping

Do you wish to snub the exquisitely touristy shops of the Alcaiceria area just to one side of Bib Rambla Square or in the Calderia area or Calle Elvira? Carry on, instead,we enjoyed these shops full of reasonably priced Moroccan style goods from lamps to leather handbags, ethnic fabrics to scarves, mugs, wallets ceramics. Granada also has a host of other shops selling all sorts of things, I even found the best and cheapest karite' butter ever in a small shop in the Albiaicin. Apart from the tourist shops Granada has all the enjoyable shops most Andalucian cities have, from Ale-hop to Zara as well as all the usual European names.


Bench with a view

Yes, you can, relax on holiday... Go up to one of the Miradors in the Albaicin or Sacromonte area - avoid San Nicolas and find your own bench in the sun with a view of the Alhamabra. Go to Carmen de los Martires gardens with a book and enjoy the warm sun (March) or the cool according to the time of year. 

Carmen de los Martires gardens Granada


Food

Tapas in Granada are famous and places to eat are everywhere, or, if you're staying in an apartment, go to Mercadona supermarket and stock up on fresh fish, jamon serrano and other Spanish specialities and cook for yourself. Don't forget to go to Ysla or Puerta Bernina to try the famous Pionono!

Pionono Granada



Relax! You're on holiday!

If you stay for longer you're not in a hurry to see everything against the clock, you can take it easy, you've got time to go back to a place you particularly liked. You've got time to stop off on the way to wherever you were going because something catches your eye. If you stay at least a week, except for the Nasrid Palaces - Generalife - Alcazaba, practically everything can be visited for free one day or another. Yes, some people 'do' Andalucia in a week. We enjoyed staying in Granada for over a week, we will remember the places we visited and sometimes revisited slowly, it was a great place to discover.




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