East Coast Sicily Day 3 - Messina

The direct coach between Milazzo and Messina leaves from the port area just a few minutes walk from our apartment. We are early and among the first to get on but there aren't that many people. The trip is reasonably scenic, there are views of the coast and not too many stops and we are soon alighting in front of Messina railway station. There's a convenient tourist office just outside the station where a friendly man gives us a map and explains the main attractions. We have a quick look at the area with a lot of big shops not far from the station and then head for the historical centre. The main square is Piazza del Duomo, where there is the Duomo, the famous Astronomical Clock Bell tower and the Orione fountain. 

It's an attractive tree lined square with benches and just a few people wandering around, and almost as many hopeful girls trying to sell trips on the tourist train. We have a look at the Duomo, which has a beautiful mosaic of Cristo Pantocratore which reminds us of the one we saw in Cefalù a year before. The clean vertical lines of the interior and the ceiling are also very nice, as is the facade. One of the main attractions in Messina is the Astronomical Clock Bell tower display which starts at 12 o'clock. 

It's still a bit early for that so we continue exploring the centre and wandering along Corso Cavour, have a look at the almost deserted Galleria Vittorio Emanuele III also in search of  the inappropriately named Bar Torino which is supposed to be the most specialised in specialist granita in a city specialised in granita. You get the idea. In fact the narrow café is bursting with people, mostly locals, having what must surely be a second breakfast since it's getting on for midday. We decide to join them and opt for coffee granita with the inevitable and utterly delicious wallop of whipped cream and of course the brioche. It would be presumptuous to start talking about the best granita ever since we've only just discovered the pleasures of granita so let's just say it's very good, oh yes and costs just €1.40 per person for what seems to us an enormous granita and brioche (did I mention the whipped cream?).

Much fortified we return to the main square to take up our positions for the clock tower performance. Quite a few people have gathered, as well as an array of people selling objects and services. The display is amusing, the lion roars and its all very entertaining

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By the time it finishes it's getting on for lunchtime despite the second breakfast so we head uphill to Santuario della Madonna di Montalto which is our picnic lunch destination to compare the original with the model we saw on the Astronomical Clock. We stop at a tiny shop on the way for enormous and amazingly cheap arancini, water and a beer and start our ascent. It's quite steep going up, particularly up the steps but at the top once again people are few, the Sanctuary is closed but there is an enormous statue of Pope John Paul II which is good for a photo, the view over Messina and towards Reggio Calabria is worth the effort and there is a bench for our picnic. 

After lunch we wander back downhill towards and stop for a rest in the pleasant Villa Mazzini Park then continue as far as the Neptune Fountain  and the green area beyond before heading back along the road along the sea and port to the centre. 

It's quite a long walk and coffee would be nice but we can't find anywhere particularly enticing with seats outside and make do with a quick coffee standing at the bar. After, another look at the square and the shops and we head back to catch the coach to Milazzo. Messina is not the most beautiful city in Sicily but is definitely worth a visit if you are nearby, we very much enjoyed our day there.