Val di Susa, Susa, Montginevro Pass and Briancon

Trepidation. The first 'proper' holiday "after". Over the last few months we went when we could -  to Chioggia, to Piombino and to Vicenza. All enjoyable holidays but well within our comfort zone.

This is different. Our first slow travel holiday based in France.

After weeks puzzling over the itinerary we set off from our base by the lake on a totally different route from the one I intended to take. Andrea is lucky. The motorway is blocked on the side coming out of Milan but in the other direction we sneak through with zero holdups. After Milan, heading towards Turin it's quieter and a pleasant journey.

There are no holdups but cars seem to be travelling more slowly than usual on the motorway. Maybe the high cost of fuel is slowing people down. We stop for some of that near Turin as well as for a simple lunch at La Lanterna. Nothing special but honest home cooked food from a fixed menu in a clean environment near the motorway and with ample parking.

After lunch, and another stretch of quiet motorway, we stop in Susa where it is still the lunchtime break and easy to go through the historical centre to the free parking in front of the cathedral, San Giusto. The outside is striking next to the distinctive 3rd–4th-century twin-towered arch of Porta Savoia. Inside the cathedral it's cool and quiet and there's a fine 1491 Triptych by Jacopino de Mottis.

We wander the narrow lanes a little while then go up through the park to see the Park and arch of Augustus and the Roman amphitheatre. Surprisingly massive Roman structures half way up a mountain. After exploring the area around the Roman remains, marvelling a little that such an out of the way place in the mountains had such importance in Roman times – yet another gap in my knowledge, we continue on our way.

There are many no-Tav signs around contesting the construction of the Turin-Lyon high-speed and railway line through the Susa valley. The no-TAV movement believes the project unnecessary, excessively costly and harmful to the environment and the health of local citizens. 

It’s a very easy and relaxing drive up to the Monginevro pass. There are a few tunnels but they are wide and well -lit and the lorries put on their emergency lights to warn you they are going slow. A good road with very little traffic, at least this time of the year.

The descent towards Briancon is quite steep but we are parking outside Hotel Cristol by 3.45 pm. The reception was supposed to be open from 4pm but there are already other guests checking in. The owner is friendly despite my lack of French, the entrance and the stairs and corridors somewhat vintage but the actual room on the second floor with a sloped roof has been modernized and feels larger than it is thanks to the spacious balcony. 

We deposit our stuff, and repark the car right outside the hotel. The cosy garage under the hotel is just for motorbikes or there’s the dedicated but not closed car park the other side of the road. Then, we are happy to stretch our legs and to visit the historical centre of Briancon which is just a five-minute walk away. It’s a charming town with its tall buildings with colorful shutters and steep roofs. 

I have the impression Briancon gets on with its business regardless of the influx of passing-by tourists, warning you to get out of the way of snow falling from the steep roofs instead of taking any precautions. We walk down the main streets and around the ramparts and some other narrow streets. This is the Citè Vauban and it is crowned by the fort Vauban, but it’s too late in the day to go up there, especially since there are a few menacing clouds and in the next valley it looks like it’s raining.

We wander a while, without being tempted to eat or drink and then go back up to the hotel. It’s been a long day and a picnic in our room will suffice.