Madrid in January Day 6 Museo Cerralbo

Thursday is our last day in Madrid. We are out by 9.15 and once again notice that when we come out of the apartment in Calle Montera it’s not too cold, but as soon as we turn into Gran Via, the cold is quite biting. Our destination this morning is at the end of Gran Via, just across Plaza de Espana. 

Not the Templo de Deblod, but the Cerralbo Museum. Entry is free for me with my pass and for Andrea because he’s over 65. We get there just after the opening time at 9.30 and wait just a few minutes before being allowed in. The spaces inside the house are small, so only a few people are allowed in at one time. The first floor is more or less what we were expecting: an interesting 19th century house preserved exactly as it was, but it’s on the first floor that the treasures of Marques de Cerralbo and his family are mostly concentrated - more history about them here.

Every single space on the walls, and indeed ceilings, tables, display cabinets, is occupied by the collection of Enrique, his wife Inocencia and his wife’s children Amelia and Antonio: paintings, miniatures, jewellery, books, lamps, porcelain, cutlery. It’s totally fascinating and absorbing. The actual spaces are quite small but we spend nearly two hours. The Marques left his house of treasures to the State on condition that the collection should not be divided up and that is part of its fascination. You can visit the house and admire the treasures just as the friends and acquaintances of the Marques were able to do in the 19th century.

When we come out, the sun has made some headway but there’s still ice on the fountains in front of Palacio Real 

as we walk back that way, via the theatre and to Plaza Mayor and Bar Campana for another bocadillo. This time, after lunch, we go up onto the roof terrace with our coffee and bask in the sun, away from the bustle of the streets.

We go out again about 4 o’clock, to Primark for a couple of things we need and then to look at a few shops and stop for a welcome vermouth at the welcoming Bodega de la Ardosa 

on the way to Museo del Romanticismo. After Cerralbo, this is a bit of a disappointment – a lot of portraits in a 19th century house, but nothing special. 

It only takes us about half an hour, then we go to Mercadona for Jamon for the following day and then walk down Gran Via and back up Calle Atocha to Puerta del sol and the apartment. There’s the sunset and a few stray clouds and the light is fantastic.

After supper and a shower we go for a last walk around Madrid in the dark.