Madrid in January Day 5 Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando and Reina Sofia museum

On Wednesday morning it’s well below zero so we stay in until it’s time to go to Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando, a four-minute walk from our apartment. The museum is free on Wednesdays between 10 and 15. The main reason for our visit is right in the first room: Allegory of spring by Arcimboldo - spectacular! 

The first room also holds other paintings by ‘top’ artists, from Giovanni Bellini to El Greco. We see the whole of the museum, recognizing some minor names from El Prado and Thyssen museums. There are a few people, not many, and another good point is the explanations of each painting which are pertinent and interesting. I never use audioguides because I find I’m not capable of listening and looking properly at the same time. 

Our speed through the rooms, as usual, increases chronologically, and in this case, according to the museum’s layout, vertically. We spend just over an hour and a half there. When we come out, it's warmer and pleasant so we walk through Galeria Canalejas, home to the top designer brands, 

and then go to Bar Campana where we get two excellent Bocadillos de Calamares to take home for lunch. More than enough - tasty, fried and filling, and so much better than a chip butty.

Since we got good results the day before with visiting El Prado after lunch we follow the same logistics and get to the Reina Sofia museum at about 2 o’clock. I use the Tarjeta Annual, Andrea has free entry because over 65. There’s a lot to see, but I will admit my ignorance and that little of it interests me. I am soon flagging, practically immediately, really, but we look at the rooms on the second floor where there’s Guernica and other paintings by Picasso, Mirò and a couple by Dalì that I actually like. After the second floor, which is also hot and stuffy in the busiest rooms, we go into the courtyard garden. The cold air wakes me up enough to complete the visit. 

Since we are near Atocha Railway station we go to investigate in advance where to go for our train on Friday morning. After that, since the temperature is now very plesant we go up Cuesta Mayano for a walk in Parqure El Retiro. It’s splendid to be outside in nature after the Reina Sofia. Our good impression of the park on Sunday is confirmed, even in January it’s a very pleasant place to stroll and sit.

We see the Palacio di Cristal, boarded up at the moment and the lake again, sit in the sun near the sculpted cypresses and finally stroll back home as the warm sun is doing the same.