Off the beaten track in Andalucia - Priego de Cordoba

Thursday

It’s just a twenty minute drive to Priego de Cordoba. We find parking in a side street below the historical centre. I must admit the Fiat 500 is easy to squeeze in everywhere (except on hills in Archidona). It’s a splendid morning driving through the olive groves, a brilliant blue sky, sharp fresh air – it was just 6 °C this morning.

Perhaps that’s a good excuse to explain why our first stop in Priego, past Plaza de la Costitucion where there’s a pretty square and the town hall, is at bar Niza where 4.30 euros provides us with churros and hot chocolate for two. And very good they are too. At least we won’t be looking for lunch at midday like the other days!

Thus fortified, we head back towards the historical centre, down the really beautiful road called Rio (in fact there's the stream underneath), which snakes along full of interesting palacios, and on to Plaza San Pedro, an even prettier square in front of the castle. There’s the smell of cut grass and the air is almost sparkling. Just beyond is the Iglesia de la Asuncion which should be open but isn’t. Instead, the whole of the Barrio de la Villa area is enchanting. Even at the end of February the white houses and narrow streets are full of flowers and and when we finally come out onto the Balcon del Adarve the light is almost blinding. The sun is very very pleasant. It’s a mirador, but the view of the allotments, industrial area and roads below is not as nice as the view of the Barrio itself.

We circle around, have a quick look at Huerto de las Infantas, not the right time of the year for the shady side below the castle, then double back towards the garden/square of Paseo de Colombia. After encountering more closed churches, we eventually find one open – la Iglesia de san Francisco, next to the Hospederia where we nearly stayed – but I’m glad we chose Villa Turistico de Priego. 

More wandering brings us to Fuente del Rey where we choose the ‘oldest restaurant in Priego de Cordoba’ - la Tabernilla. Actually, we wanted tapas but each town or village in Andalucia seems to have a different approach to tapas and apparently Priego doesn’t do tapas at lunchtime on a weekday. Anyway, there’s a table outside sheltered from the wind but partially in the sun so we settle for that, ordering first two canas, but actually they are copas, with a mini tapa included, then tartillitas de camerones, very good, and then rinones al Jerez, also very good. With bread and then coffee to follow we are full to bursting for 27.10 euros, not 27. Anyway, it was good. 

We go down the steps to get a good look at Fuente del Rey and Fuente de la Salud, really beautiful with 137 spouts, most of which aren’t working. Our last stop is up the Calvario hill where there’s the Ermita del Calvario, a wide sun baked square where a dog wearing a hoodie is playing ball with its owner and there's a mirador with an excellent view over Priego. It’s very pleasant in the sun!

Before driving home we battle with a Mercadona underground car park in the centre which requires accessing on the left hand side, who knows why and then roll home through the countryside to relax in the late afternoon sun on the terrace. For supper, langostine and artichokes, and salmorejo, of course.