Off the beaten track in Andalucia - Ecija

The day before we leave does not go well. It has already started snowing when I wake up and shows no sign of letting up, the flakes are enormous and even though Andrea clears the snow from the car, it's soon covered again. I make a quick call to my Dad to say I'll ring later but find out my mum called the paramedics during the night. When we finally make it to the apartment on the lake, the central heating isn't working. Don't ask why. Fortunately by the next day the stars seem to have realigned better. We have a smooth drive to the airport, arrive early, chew some of our homemade sandwiches while someone plays the piano at the gate, find a decent cappuccino and almost don't realise it's time to board. Ryanair is so on time we arrive above Malaga early and have to circle above the sea a few times. Yes, well, what fun.

Once on terra firma it's a short walk to our Malagacar.com shuttle bus, a short trip to their offices, a short wait at the desk and we are soon heading for Osuna in a Fiat 500 colour 'dipinto de azul'. We make good time. Even I find it easy to drive a Fiat 500, the weather is breezy but dry, and the traffic once we're out of Málaga is non-existent. As I drive I realise we're finally back in Spain after a nearly five year gap due to Covid and family problems.

It's still light when we squeeze easily into a tiny space outside our accommodation, and earlier than I planned, so we're able to amble around El Jambon and Mercadona supermarkets, looking for essentials and Pedro Jiménez and queso and fish and salmorejo. Our first dinner in Spain consists in fresh salmorejo from Mercadona with Vermouth and taralli (from home by Andrea), and fried cod, bread and salad and of course Pedro Jiménez, by about 9 pm. We're back.

The weather forecast for Sunday is not excellent but we set off for Écija just past 9 o'clock. Ejica is quiet on a Sunday morning and it's easy to park in the free car park in Calle Merinos. From there it's just a short walk to the centre. On the way we see the outside of Palacio de los Granados where I had planned to stay on a trip we never managed and which then closed during Covid and stayed closed. Outside the Iglesia de Santa Ana, some men are preparing to practice for the Semana Santa processions, winding material around themselves to reinforce their backs. A little further along is the Palacio de Peñaflor with it's long and frescoed balcony and other fine palacios. It's a cloudy day but everything in Écija is light and clean and white and deep ochre. 

Ecija is also famous for its colourful bell towers.

At the Plaza we get a map from the tourist office and go to look at a few churches  - the altarpiece in Iglesia de Santiago is covered up for Lent which is a pity. We also look at the Iglesia di San Francisco, the ruins and tiny church of San Juan and a couple of others. The Mercado de Abastos is closed because it's Sunday but looks promising. Local people are enjoying churros and hot chocolate but we aren't tempted. Back at the tourist office we go up the Mirador de Benameja which was inaugurated on 14th February. There are a few rays of sun but the wind is chilly and the sky above the plaza is grey.

It's well past our lunchtime even though the Spanish are still digesting churros and maybe only contemplating a cana. So, after some indecision, we sit outside, a little windy but bearable, at Bar El Salón and order 4 tapas: carne con pimientos, callos, liver and onions,  and Lomo alla salsa. All excellent, although it's difficult to eat it all before it gets cold. With two canas, bread etc we spend just 13 euros. We are foolish and think we will drink coffee elsewhere without realising that 2pm in Écija is not the right time to do that. In the end we go back to the car for a nap and to warm up then drive back to Osuna.