Vieste September 2023 Trip Report

I'm putting this post on the Blog, but it's more of my diary than an informative blog post......

Arriving in Vieste

We have been up and down between the Alps and Puglia several times so this time I've got it all planned out. I'll prepare the last luggage and pack the car on Tuesday evening, then a light supper, a friend is invited but she knows we're leaving so she won't linger, and an early night. On Wednesday morning we'll stop at the lake, where our guests will already have left, to sort out essentials, then back in the car to be at Bologna for lunchtime, Gradara for mid-afternoon.

Perfect planning. At 4.30 pm on Tuesday I start putting things away at our Baita to get back home and follow the plan. At 4.35 the donkeys arrive in the meadow, brought up by the man who kindly cuts hay and looks after the meadow. Just as we are greeting Polly and Ginetta and their owner, two friends arrive to say hello. I get the chairs back out and provide water, beer and biscuits.

We get back just before supper time and I chuck anything that's ready for the journey in the car and the food I'd fortunately prepared at Baita in the microwave and make it to the table for our guest at 7.30. Our friend enjoys the food and we chat. And chat. And chat. Andrea's eyes start to droop and I sneak a glance at the clock. I still have stuff to prepare. I get up and stretch and bring the topic round to our journey. An excellent topic for more chatting, apparently.

The next morning I rise early, at least that is as planned even if the early night was conspicuous by its absence. The very late night means everything I finished getting everything ready and we are in the car on time. Except that our guests at the lake have delayed their departure so they can say goodbye..... and have a chat. Which is very pleasant, I must say. We finally set off at 10.30 and make it as far as Mantova for lunch at Trattoria Isidora. A special place. The fixed menu is 13€. I have pasta with pumpkin and sausage, Andrea riso al pilota, then a rack of pork ribs and scaloppine ai funghi half each. I am full to bursting. From the menu, autumn has apparently arrived, even if the temperature is nearly 30°C.

We head for the motorway but Google Maps warns of hold-ups onto the A4 in Modena so we decide to take the scenic route through the countryside to Bologna. A battle ensues between Google Maps which still wants us to get back on the motorway in the middle of a traffic jam and Andrea who is determined we'll take the scenic route ....you get the idea. 

It could be annoying and instead I relax and forget the grand plan, we're on holiday and it's pleasant driving on ever more minor roads. I stop while Andrea tames Google, and get out of the car. It's hot but the breeze is cool. We're on a dirt road by a river bank in the middle of nowhere and suddenly I feel ok. A man comes by on a bike and smiles.

We get to San Giovanni in Persiceto for 4 o'clock and find a great place for an extra coffee and then finally get on the motorway just after Bologna, hurtling along the third line to Castelferretti where we arrive in time to buy Lacrima di Morro for Andrea, focaccia to eat with our tomatoes and crash out. By 9 pm I'm asleep. The plan is to arrive in Vieste the next day.

Next morning, more hurtling along the motorway. This time we're luckier, most of the traffic is in the other direction and we make good time until we stop at IKEA Chieti for a second breakfast. At about 11.30 we get off the motorway and buy more focaccia in Lesina and stop by Torre Mileto to eat it. The rest of the route is panoramic and we arrive in Vieste, perfectly according to plan, at 3pm. A new holiday has started. 

Staying in Vieste

Usually in Vieste we stay near the Scialara beach, because we love that beach, firm golden sand, 3 kms long to walk up and down with a splendid view of Vieste. This time we are near Lungomare Europa but once again with a good view of Vieste in one direction and San Lorenzo in the other. This beach is very pleasant too. Lido Helios is about half way along it and I prefer walking in the San Lorenzo direction, quieter and more natural.

Lido Helios is pleasant, the owner smiles and says hello when I go for my see-the-dawn walks first thing in the morning. The other advantage is that we're nearer the centre of Vieste so most mornings we walk into Vieste to do some shopping at the car park near the stadium and every day, late afternoon we walk into Vieste for a stroll along Marina piccola, where there are the giant arms “Building Bridges – Costruendo Ponti” by Lorenzo Quinn, around the historical centre, as far as Pizzomunno....

I've liked Vieste since we first visited in 2019 but this year, if possible even more, perhaps because we are closer to the centre so I don't need to use the car. The late afternoon strolls are very relaxing and pleasant. This year we have also been very lucky with the weather. Just a couple of half days of a little cloud and waves. The other days the sea is calm and warm and I can swim, usually first thing in the morning when anyway it is calmer, as long as I want. 

As usual when we arrive in Vieste we plan to do lots of things, go back to Peschici was one this year, and visit Portonuovo and Mannacora beaches. We do nothing. It's just so relaxing to not use the car, the beach is beautiful, Vieste is beautiful, this is Slow travel after all.

Being within walking distance of the shops means it's easier to explore more food options. We already knew about the morning stalls selling food in the car park near the stadium and the nearby Pescheria Troiano, but this time we explore a couple of butcher's, finding some excellent local lamb, various bakeries, a cheese producer for cacioricotta and caciocavallo and eat out a couple of times in the evening. Both times I eat Paposcia. A discovery! not at all chewy. It's better than pizza! 

This year we stayed 9 nights in Vieste and I didn't get bored. I even saw the dolphins in the distance and a lot of spectacular dawns.....