Hiking in Vallecamonica - Pian di Gembro and Trivigno

Pian di Gembro Nature Reserve and Trivigno

A relaxing walk is the plan more than a hike and Pian di Gembro seems a good destination for a level stroll in the mountains. The Pian Gembro peat bog is a Partial Botanical Nature Reserve, located in the Municipality of Villa di Tirano (Sondrio), at an altitude of 1350 m. a.s.l. It was formed about 10,000 years ago, and peat was extracted from the beginning of the 1900s up to the 70s with a maximum in the period between the two wars. The road to Pian di Gembro leaves the SS39 between Edolo and Aprica near Aprica, from San Pietro. 

The road is narrow but not impossible and on a Friday in the middle of June traffic is scarce. We park just across from the entrance to the Reserve and study the map which shows the main paths. We set off to the left along the boardwalks 

over the wetland area and from there on the dirt track which winds along the southern side of the area. The track takes us through splendid meadows of flowers 

but not very close to the wetland area, reaching the baite di Valcheola. It’s less than an hour to reach the opposite end of the Reserve and the small lake area created when the peat was extracted. 

Here there’s a bench and a good view over Valtellina so we sit to chat and eat a few taralli before continuing our journey along the other side, accompanied by the sounds of frogs croaking. A little way along there’s the path to Monte della Croce which we reached the first time we visited the area in 2020.

It’s now a short walk back to where we left the car, we choose the figure of 8 route which takes us back towards the boardwalks and the centre part is perhaps less interesting due to the houses built before the reserve was created. It’s a relaxing stroll but enough to give us an appetite for lunch at Ristorante Le Betulla, chosen because it’s one of the very few places open in low season and because the reviews seem good. There’s a pranzo di lavoro for 12 euros, not much choice, but it suits us- pizzoccheri, and very good pizzoccheri, followed by trota salmonata with tomato and herbs. We are tempted into an extra: ‘sorbetto al Braulio’. Braulio is a local ‘amaro’ which is supposed to aid the digestion and in this case the ‘sorbetto' is vanilla ice-cream with sparkling mineral water and Braulio. A little over-priced at 5 euros compared to the rest but coffee is included in the pranzo di lavoro so we spend about 50 euros for three people. The place is packed with workers and a few tourists/bikers/ walkers.

After lunch we continue up to Trivigno 

for a stroll amongst the meadows and in particular to say hello to some orchids we saw on a previous trip. Splendid! And who knows why so many, and just there. I’m driving and my passengers suggest returning via Mortirolo Pass. We do, but it’s a long, narrow and winding road and I’m glad when we actually arrive at the Pass. There’s a small shelter and a toilet and quite a few cyclists and motorbikers and a blue bench in memory of David Sassoli. 

We sit and admire the view of the Alta Valtellina and then drive home via Edolo.