Novara

The journey along Lake Endine is as tedious as ever, with speed limits, roundabouts, cyclists and the car in front of me which must have had a speeding fine along there if his nail-bitingly cautious progress 5 km below any limit is an indication. It's a relief to get onto the motorway towards Milan, where the Sunday traffic is lighter and lorry-free compared to the rest of the week. We make good time but by the time we see the signs for Novara I need a rest.

Novara is sleepy on this warm June morning and we find a parking space easily, within blue lines, but parking is free on Sundays. Mostly by chance we are close to the Museo di Storia Naturale. Our reasons for visiting are not of the highest order. We go in because it's free, promises air-conditioning and a chance to wake up and there are toilet facilities. Instead, it turns out to be an interesting visit.

The "Faraggiana Ferrandi" Natural History Museum houses environmental reconstructions showing the fauna of Europe and various other geographical areas in the 19th century Palazzo Faraggiana. The zoological collection, of which over 450 specimens are currently on display, is the second largest in Piedmont, and the most interesting specimens include the snow leopard, the Berber lion, a yak and Ibis eremita which we photographed in the fields below our house last summer. Most belong to the historical collection of the Faraggiana family. We especially like the section dedicated to the Alps, where the owl collection reminds me there's a difference in size between a civetta, gufo and barbagianni.

The museum is close to the Antonelliana Dome of the Basilica of San Gaudenzio, one of the largest buildings in the world built entirely of brick and symbol of the city. 

The Basilica is open, and almost deserted and we look around. The side chapels are interesting and well explained and in the "Chapel of the Nativity" is the large two-story polyptych by Gaudenzio Ferrari (1516). 

When we come out, the pleasant narrow side streets of elegant palazzi are all but deserted. I think of the hordes of people who must be thronging Florence, Rome and Verona on a Sunday morning and am happy to be visiting Novara. 

Towards the centre, there are a few people out for a stroll while the air is still fresh. There are pleasant porticoes, and old buildings and we have a quick look in the Duomo, where Mass is taking place. The adjacent baptistery with its frescoes is the oldest existing building in the city, dating back to the end of the IVth century and one of the oldest early Christian buildings in Piedmont. There are at least a couple of fine squares, one in front of the Duomo and the large square in front of the castle. 

There's also more to see, but it's lunchtime and we have to continue our journey towards the Valle d'Aosta so we head for a restaurant. I live in Italy and I love Italian food. However, I'm not keen on rice and I rather miss some of the ethnic food easily available in the UK. One reason I love Cagliari is because there are at least two excellent Indian takeaways and the apartment we used to stay in was within curry-smell distance of one. 

So today we head for a Turkish restaurant which gets good reviews. Simple, spotlessly clean, we end up paying just €22.50 for Moussaka (my objective), a massive wrap with lamb and plenty of salad, excellent pieces of focaccia and two different sauces while we are waiting, a large 66cl bottle of beer, 50cl water, and two coffees. Excellent! Not surprisingly, by 1 o'clock the place is packed.

Back at the car, the heat has increased and I expect moussaka and beer to convert into sleepiness as we head towards Verrayes on the motorway. The fact I remain wide awake is confirmation the food was good. We didn't see everything there was to see in Novara. No problem, we will definitely return when we need a stopover on one of our future trips.