Sardinia in May Day 1: Olbia, Porto Istana, Cala Girgolu, Punta Molara

Our first day in Sardegna starts early. We are out and walking along Porto Istana beach before nine o’clock. Parking is easy. There’s a car park which is open, but almost empty and a bored looking young man on patrol, but there are a few spaces on the side of the road just opposite, so we park there. There’s a grey sky and the reflection of the sun filtered by the clouds but even so the view of the bay and Tavolara island behind it, is impressive. The sand of Porto Istana beach is white and the sea is so calm it hardly laps against the shore. We walk a little way along the coastal path towards the south, past Spiaggia del cuore with coarse pink sand and as far as La Finosa. The sun is trying to come out but not quite succeeding.

Our mission this morning is to stock up on food for a few days so we drive to Olbia. But before getting down to the shopping we park near the centre and have a look around. The beautiful and ancient church of San Semplicio is a surprise in the modern surroundings and the simple granite interior is attractive. 

The older centre of Olbia is back towards the town station. Some nice streets of oldish houses as well as plenty of bars and restaurants. There are a few foreign tourists about. Due to various problems I had not had time to look up what Olbia might offer so the discovery of the church of San Paolo and various other religious buildings  around it, is a surprise. Nicer out than in, especially the contrast between the old stone and the colourful cupola.

Time is getting on and no shopping has been achieved. We have visited Sardegna many times in the past, on several camping or self-catering trips by car in May/early June until 2009 and then by plane to Cagliari to hike the coast in April for three years before Covid. Cagliari has an excellent food market as well as an enormous choice of eateries for any budget but our food memories of the rest of Sardegna were confined to artichokes in season, some fish Andrea fished himself, and prawns in Alghero. This part of Sardegna offers little in the way of reasonably priced local produce. After a few Google-guided attempts at fishmongers and greengrocers we end up at the Conad hypermarket but the choice is basic even there, especially compared to Puglia.

We get back home late and I prepare pastasciutta. It’s still cloudy in the afternoon, so I do some work and Andrea rests. We go out at about 4 towards Cala Ghilgolu, recommended by our host. Our Honda Jazz resents the dirt road full of bumps and potholes and complains even more when we discover that the car park is closed for low season but the only remaining parking is in a no parking area. I reluctantly leave the car there while we explore. The bay is ok, but lots of views of surrounding villas. There’s a route to the Spiaggia delle tartarughe and Spiaggia delle Vacche but jumping about on slippery rocks is not ideal for Andrea’s knee.

We give up, get the car, which heaves a sigh of relief, and drive back to the other turning in the direction of Punta Molara. After a few false starts we discover the Park of Punta Molara. We walk a little way but decide to turn back and continue down the road by car to the Punta Molara residential area. We drive through, checking with the Vigilanza, but there’s a public parking area just before the road is closed to non-residents. From there, it’s an easy walk down to the coast. It’s still cloudy and there’s nobody around so it’s nice. Punta Molara has fine views of the pinkish red rocks along the coast, the sea and isola Tavolara. I stop on the beach for a while, long enough to get cold, while Andrea is experimenting with photos, and then we go back to base for some indifferent fish.