Tuscany in June Colle di Val d'Elsa
We are undecided about the trip, torn between Covid-19 apprehension, a slightly guilty conscience about spending money when we haven't been earning any for months, a slightly unreal feeling about it being ok to go on holiday so soon after lockdown and the desire to go anyway, especially when our chosen destinations are unlikely (hoping the Coronavirus or similar doesn't strike again) to be so free of crowds at such a nice time of the year ever again.
We go. Some doubts about the weather, a wasp sting and an overzealous ice treatment to cure it which nearly results in a cold burn delay us a day but first thing on Tuesday morning we are on our way. The dreaded Parma Bologna Firenze motorway is surprisingly uncongested and we make good time, driving into San Casciano (which actually was probably not worth driving into because the one in Val di pesa, not San Casciano Terme) at about 9.30. Here we find a grotty graffiti infested 'park' where there's at least a bench to stop for a slice of my homemade cake and coffee from the flask.
Feeling much better we set off slowly on the ordinary road towards Colle di Val d'Elsa. I'd read somewhere that this is one of the most panoramic roads in Tuscany and although we set off a little sceptical about 'Tuscany' which "gives itself airs and is overrated" etc etc driving slowly through the quiet countryside we succumb to its charm: rolling hills, really, divided into checkerboards of colours, light beige wheat, lines of olive trees or vines, pockets of woodland, isolated buildings often at the top of little hills which seem to have melted into the landscape it's easy to see why Tuscany is so popular soft ordered beautiful and reassuring, none of the wild landscapes of our mountains.....
We're a little early for our meeting time at the apartment so we stop, randomly, at a Badia in the countryside. It's closed, but it doesn't matter. The view all around is worth the stop, the warm sun after the recent rainy days in the mountains is just so pleasant.
The apartment is fine, in a new residential area on the outskirts it even has a tiny pocket of garden with an olive tree and table to eat outside. We eat, get sorted out and then go to the Carrefour supermarket just round the corner for some shopping. As we get back to the apartment the heavens, as forecasted, open, so we have a snooze, I do a lesson on Skype, we eat an early supper and then go out to explore Colle di Val d'Elsa.
It's just past half past seven on a damp June evening. The rain has retreated and a washed out sun is heading for the horizon. Perhaps because it's suppertime or probably because people are still cautious about the virus, there's absolutely nobody around.
We take the lift up to the historical centre and explore almost on tiptoe, silence, old stone, silence, swallows diving around, silence, the occasional clink of crockery behind closed shutters. After the lockdown, after the indecision about this trip, after the longish drive, suddenly we listen to the silence, and just a little, start to relax. The walk along the bulwark
and the street which runs mostly under houses on the opposite side of the town are particularly nice.
We take the lift up to the historical centre and explore almost on tiptoe, silence, old stone, silence, swallows diving around, silence, the occasional clink of crockery behind closed shutters. After the lockdown, after the indecision about this trip, after the longish drive, suddenly we listen to the silence, and just a little, start to relax. The walk along the bulwark
and the street which runs mostly under houses on the opposite side of the town are particularly nice.
Colle di Val d'Elsa is soon visited, a small historical centre at the top of the hill, well-kept and without horrendous modern intrusions it is everything one imagines of Tuscany. On this damp June evening there is no-one around and we explore slowly, walking up and down the quiet streets and admiring the outside of the Museo Civico where there's the tourist office in particular. We also go as far as the church of San Francisco, which is closed. It's been a long day, and after a quick look at the more modern part of the town we head for home.
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