Granada in March Day 2 Centre and Palacio Carlos V
Mercadona is always a mainstay on holidays in Andalucía but the local market is usually more interesting to see local products especially fish, olives, fruit and vegetables. This is our destination this morning but it's still a little early so we wander around the area near the cathedral and visit the Tourist office where there's an interesting exhibition about local produce in a side room. On the main patio there are also several columns with little boxes on top. Each little box contains a pair of binoculars and each pair of binoculars treats you to a 3D image of Garcia Lorca's family home. Nice!
The lady in the tourist office is kind and friendly and gives us maps and advice for visiting the Alhambra the next day. Well pleased, our next stop is Mercado de San Agustín. The market seems to have been recently built, it's 9.30 and only a few stalls are open but more than a market it seems to be a chic eating place. The produce is attractive and well displayed but most of the stalls offer to cook what you buy. The prices match. No doubt an interesting option, but not what we're looking for at all. While most of the stalls don't even display prices, it's the first time I've seen the prices of fruit and vegetables displayed 'per 250g'.
We back out disappointed and consult the Internet for alternatives with no results, Granada may have a lot going for it but apparently not a great Mercado de Abastos.... Before heading back to Mercadona we stop at Librería Elvira to pick up the free tickets for the Royal chapel and the Cathedral which we reserved on the Internet. Mercadona is quieter and the fish section has been replenished so in the end we are satisfied when we head back for an early lunch, we also buy artichokes at 1.49€ per kilo and other fruit, vegetables and cheese. Rain had been forecast for most of the day but we get back home dry.
After lunch we venture out armed with the New Umbrella, but optimistically. Reaching the Alhambra is easy, just 15 minutes walk from the apartment up Cuesta del Realejo as far as the Alhambra Palace hotel which despite its stars and concierges looks unexpectedly Disneyish from the outside and then another 5 minutes along the road through the Alhambra woods to Puerta de la Justicia.
Access is free to all from this Gate and takes us to the area outside the Carlos V palace just across from where you have to queue to access the Nasrid Palaces. We observe the queue according to the time, working out what time we will want to start queuing the following morning. There are audioguides available directly to those waiting in the queue. There's also a left luggage building where there are toilets. Our objective this afternoon is to find out where everything is and be ready for our Alhambra visit the next day. I'm surprised that apart from the people queuing there aren't that many people around, certainly not the hordes I expected, perhaps because the afternoon is cloudy and cool and rain is threatened. We go into the round central area of the Carlos V Palace
and then visit the Museum on the Ground floor which is free and dedicated to Andalusí art. It's pleasantly warm inside and there are very few people. The most interesting exhibits are the Gazelles Vase, the Palacio de los Infantes door, with inlaid decoration, some carved eaves, an ancient foldable chair and a video showing how the 'socle' tiles are made. It's useful preparation for the visit tomorrow.
Next we go upstairs to the Museo de las Bellas Artes. The first room has pictures from the period after the Nazari reign from the end of the 15th to the first half of the 18th century and is well worth a look but the most interesting feature are the sculptures by Alonso Cano and in particular the life size saints and the Ecce Homo sculpture by Jose de Moro.
After, we have a look inside the Parador which is a pleasant brick built building. The terrace inside, while recommended on TripAdvisor, is actually very small with no outside views and considering the prices and the temperature, does not tempt us for coffee.
Dark clouds are looming so we decide to head back downhill into town. Rain was forecast for about 5 and it's now half past four. The walk downhill through the Alhambra woods along Cuesta de Gomerez is quick, and we have a look at some of the touristy shops lower down. We have to be at the Capilla Real for 5.30 so we just have time to go to 100 Montaditos for a coffee, juice and chocolate Montadito, the first time we choose the sweet version.
There's no queue at the Capilla Real and we are pleasantly surprised to discover that the free visit also includes the audioguides. This is the first time we've used them and in this case they are very useful, filling us in on some of the history which is key in Granada about the Reyes Católicos Isabel y Fernando and Carlos V. Listening to the guide means we pay due attention to all the details and notice small particulars. It also means that the visit to the small space takes nearly an hour. The tombs and the enormous Golden altarpiece behind are well worth a visit and the small exhibition of paintings in the final room is delightful.
When we leave the Royal Chapel we discover that the rain has finally started. We spend a short time among the interesting little shops selling Moroccan style goods in the Alcaicería area but the rain really is getting heavier so we scurry back to the apartment through the slippery streets, although it must be said that the New Umbrella copes extremely well with the downpour. Back 'home' the cast iron radiators are on full blast and we relax gratefully into the dry and cosy warmth. After supper we watch some YouTube programs about the Alhambra to prepare for the next day.
The lady in the tourist office is kind and friendly and gives us maps and advice for visiting the Alhambra the next day. Well pleased, our next stop is Mercado de San Agustín. The market seems to have been recently built, it's 9.30 and only a few stalls are open but more than a market it seems to be a chic eating place. The produce is attractive and well displayed but most of the stalls offer to cook what you buy. The prices match. No doubt an interesting option, but not what we're looking for at all. While most of the stalls don't even display prices, it's the first time I've seen the prices of fruit and vegetables displayed 'per 250g'.
We back out disappointed and consult the Internet for alternatives with no results, Granada may have a lot going for it but apparently not a great Mercado de Abastos.... Before heading back to Mercadona we stop at Librería Elvira to pick up the free tickets for the Royal chapel and the Cathedral which we reserved on the Internet. Mercadona is quieter and the fish section has been replenished so in the end we are satisfied when we head back for an early lunch, we also buy artichokes at 1.49€ per kilo and other fruit, vegetables and cheese. Rain had been forecast for most of the day but we get back home dry.
After lunch we venture out armed with the New Umbrella, but optimistically. Reaching the Alhambra is easy, just 15 minutes walk from the apartment up Cuesta del Realejo as far as the Alhambra Palace hotel which despite its stars and concierges looks unexpectedly Disneyish from the outside and then another 5 minutes along the road through the Alhambra woods to Puerta de la Justicia.
Access is free to all from this Gate and takes us to the area outside the Carlos V palace just across from where you have to queue to access the Nasrid Palaces. We observe the queue according to the time, working out what time we will want to start queuing the following morning. There are audioguides available directly to those waiting in the queue. There's also a left luggage building where there are toilets. Our objective this afternoon is to find out where everything is and be ready for our Alhambra visit the next day. I'm surprised that apart from the people queuing there aren't that many people around, certainly not the hordes I expected, perhaps because the afternoon is cloudy and cool and rain is threatened. We go into the round central area of the Carlos V Palace
Next we go upstairs to the Museo de las Bellas Artes. The first room has pictures from the period after the Nazari reign from the end of the 15th to the first half of the 18th century and is well worth a look but the most interesting feature are the sculptures by Alonso Cano and in particular the life size saints and the Ecce Homo sculpture by Jose de Moro.
After, we have a look inside the Parador which is a pleasant brick built building. The terrace inside, while recommended on TripAdvisor, is actually very small with no outside views and considering the prices and the temperature, does not tempt us for coffee.
Dark clouds are looming so we decide to head back downhill into town. Rain was forecast for about 5 and it's now half past four. The walk downhill through the Alhambra woods along Cuesta de Gomerez is quick, and we have a look at some of the touristy shops lower down. We have to be at the Capilla Real for 5.30 so we just have time to go to 100 Montaditos for a coffee, juice and chocolate Montadito, the first time we choose the sweet version.
There's no queue at the Capilla Real and we are pleasantly surprised to discover that the free visit also includes the audioguides. This is the first time we've used them and in this case they are very useful, filling us in on some of the history which is key in Granada about the Reyes Católicos Isabel y Fernando and Carlos V. Listening to the guide means we pay due attention to all the details and notice small particulars. It also means that the visit to the small space takes nearly an hour. The tombs and the enormous Golden altarpiece behind are well worth a visit and the small exhibition of paintings in the final room is delightful.
When we leave the Royal Chapel we discover that the rain has finally started. We spend a short time among the interesting little shops selling Moroccan style goods in the Alcaicería area but the rain really is getting heavier so we scurry back to the apartment through the slippery streets, although it must be said that the New Umbrella copes extremely well with the downpour. Back 'home' the cast iron radiators are on full blast and we relax gratefully into the dry and cosy warmth. After supper we watch some YouTube programs about the Alhambra to prepare for the next day.
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